- The small black thing at the carbon fiber rod is a C clip made of plastic to retain the actuator wires but tape will do fine.
- CA fiberglass material around the coil hole to prevent the balsa from cracking:
- Draw circle on paper and fold.
- Put 4 layers of FG between folded paper.
- Cut circle, remove FG.
- CA FG over coil hole and trim with knife.
- Clean hole with 13/32 drill bit.
- The actuators are mounted near the fuse to keep weight low for stability. Actuators are usually mounted perpendicular to the control surface - it's a little easier but it obstructs air flow a bit. The flush mount approach is much nicer in my view.
- The center of the coil must be in line with the hinge.
- For the coils I used .005" magnet wire but if I were to do it again I would go down to about .003 as I had to put a 18 ohm resistor in series to avoid over deflection! My coil came out at 7 ohms and had plenty of power at 0.5V 60ma! The JMP requires at least 10 ohms.
- The hinge uses a piece of a rubber band straight down the crack with clear tape alternating between the fixed and movable surfaces. I cut 1/2" tape to 1/4" and used 4 strips per side (2 on fixed surface, 2 on movable surface).
- The V-tail assembly was CA'ed to a length of wire insulation to make adjustment and disassembly easy. Cut the insulation a bit longer than the tail to be sure no CA gets inside the insulation, which would prevent removal of the tail for repair.
- See the CAD drawing for dimensions.
